Wirr am Brunnenmarkt

Review

Once again confused

Photo: Heribert Corn And Yppe again. But there wasn't anything there before, was there? That's right, there used to be an open space between the Staud store, Brunnenpassage and the last kebab stalls on Brunnenmarktzeile. Not any more, since the beginning of July there has been a rather prominently placed new restaurant, and on two floors at that. Seven years of negotiations and planning went into it, explain Andreas Knünz and Manuel Köpp, operators of Wirr in Burggasse for the past four years, who only moved in eight months ago and more or less finished taking over the restaurant. Very defensive, but it is clear that protests from local residents are to be expected here too, just as they were last year when the Marktamt building was converted into the Ottakringer craft beer bar at Yppenplatz 4. At least the Wirr people showed sensitivity and hired the sprayer "Ruin" to help design the interior of the bar. He had already done a lot in the area, "and we want to integrate ourselves here as much as possible when new buildings have already been constructed". And so the Wirr am Brunnenmarkt was given its typical Wirr grunge look from day one, with rusty tables and armchairs, walls covered in graffiti art, flea market furniture, seating steps with cushions, a Wuzel table and the roof terrace, "after all, the Wirr in Burggasse is more of a winter pub". The terrace roof on the Wirr at Brunnenmarkt, which can be reached via an external staircase, is apparently also trying to be a little anti-chic, but only halfway there with teak flooring and a canvas awning. This terrace will inevitably be Wirr's bridge to the world of Prosecco - well, at least it's not on the menu yet, but the Hugo, the Lillet spritz and the violet spritz can be seen as an approximation. There are also nice, hard cocktails, open beer from Villacher, bottled beer from young Munich craft beer maker Tilman Ludwig. The range of solid food is still tiny for the time being, but Knünz and Köpp say they want to grow into it slowly, with hipster breakfasts (porridge, shakshuka, Joseph bread, banana bread ...) and street food from the Wirr's typical world cuisine pool.
Last week, they served pretty good samosas with chicken filling and rather Christmassy beetroot vegetables (€ 6.20) and a grilled wrap with sheep's cheese, zucchini and eggplant, also quite good (€ 5.20). The Wirr am Brunnenmarkt will work, no question about it, the combination of location, terrace and what young people like to eat and drink makes this very likely. But the lack of any surprises is a bit of a shame. Summary: the "winter restaurant" Wirr has a "summery" sister restaurant on Yppenplatz - with street food, spritzers and a roof terrace. Wirr am Brunnenmarkt 16th, Brunneng./Schellhammerg., Tel. 01/402 30 98, Mon-Sat 9am-2pm

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