Schachtelwirt

Review

Photo: Heribert Corn Prejudices have their value in simplifying the complicated and reducing unpredictability. But sometimes they can lead you astray. Or who would expect a restaurant that seriously calls itself a "Schachtelwirt" and is located in the Bermuda Triangle to be even remotely tasty? Well, of course. Here is a list of the reasons why this restaurant called Schachtelwirt is definitely not a full-on pub. Firstly: because it looks good. A take-away restaurant with a grey industrial look was created from one of the indifferent Bermuda triangle chocherln, with cement tiles, wood from an old barn wall, kitchen glazing with partly bull's-eye panes and a ceiling made of mighty ventilation pipes. The idea behind it was to quote the old Viennese kitchen culture, says Thomas Rijs, one of the two Schachtelwirt owners, hence the lectern tables in the style of deconstructed Heurigen banquettes. Secondly: because they cook well. According to Rijs, the Schachtelwirt's idea is to create fast cuisine with good basic products. We've heard this a bit too often recently, but it seems to be more than just lip service. The meat, for example, comes from the butcher Hödl, the last butcher in Vienna who still slaughters his own meat, the beer comes from the organic brewery Gusswerk, the pasta is homemade and, above all, the food is freshly cooked, which is quite rare in a fast food restaurant. In other words, you order, the chef stands in the kitchen, which is partially glazed, and gets started - the dish is ready in a maximum of five minutes, says Rijs. And not only that, the Schachtel landlords also rely on a pinch of creativity. The roast pork (which was already out at 2 p.m., which is also a good sign) is not only served with cabbage and dumplings, but also with separate crispy fried crusts in the cardboard box (€ 7.50), the Blunzengröstl was given a really sexy touch with its fried apple pieces and subtle use of marjoram (€ 7.50) and the beetroot salad with lamb's lettuce, roasted thyme pear and blue cheese was also really, really good (€ 6.50). Blueberry pancakes were no longer possible, the portions are large. Thirdly, because these are interesting guys. Rijs, for example, was a bartender on the night shift, is a full-time firefighter and has been catering for the troops there for six years. Compagnon Thomas Fuchs describes himself as a passionate hobby chef, and then there's their buddy Silvio Nickol, who is anything but a hobby chef, but is head chef at Palais Coburg and one of the best chefs in the country. Nickol gave them a few tips, says Thomas Rijs, and you have to say: you can tell. Summary: a take-away restaurant that finally doesn't copy some system gastronomy concept, but does something of its own, and does it very well. Schachtelwirt 1, Judengasse 5 Tel. 01/532 07 07 Tue-Thu 11.30 a.m.-2 p.m. Fri, Sat 11.30 a.m.-2 p.m.

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