Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters 1070

Review

The sour café

Photo: Heribert Corn The hipsters have it good at the Zieglergasse/Westbahnstraße intersection. Here they can queue for their Berlin kebab, get Scandinavian vintage kitchen design, natural wines from South Tyrol, electric bicycles, the finest vinyl at no less than three addresses, wooden toys for the little ones, sustainable designer bags from Switzerland for the grown-ups, hand-milled pepper mills and craft beer with 13-hour smoked brisket. So everything you really need is here, except a coffee house. So of course you can get an espresso anywhere here, even really good ones in the Swiss-sustainable designer bag store. But there wasn't really anything to sit, sip and look at for miles around. Until just before Christmas, when Philip Feyer opened his second Jonas Reindl. He opened his first one four years earlier in Währinger Straße and since then it has been the place where students drink their sour, fruity 3rd Wave coffees. But because he had always been itching to roast coffee himself, he went the long way through the institutions to get permission for a small in-house roastery in the middle of the seventh district. The former pizzeria was given some solid wooden furniture and a counter with teak slats. And, of course, an espresso machine from the iconic Slayer brand from Seattle and a twelve-kilo roaster from Probat, which Feyer uses twice a week with his headphones on, meticulously following the temperature curve and programmed roasting profile, taking a sample every few minutes and then, at just the right moment, letting the freshly roasted beans flow into the cooling pan, where the hot air is extracted with a deafening noise. But neither the noise nor the smell of the roasted coffee beans - which isn't that attractive - bothers people, Feyer himself is a little surprised, the café is full every day, especially at weekends, although there's really nothing on offer apart from coffee, no pulled pork sandwiches, no pastrami, no burgers, no quinoa bowls, avo toasts or anything else that hipsters eat, just a few cakes or delicious rogalach, fluffy, creamy chocolate roulades. And the coffee isn't really mainstream either, Feyer explains that his roasting is "Scandinavian", "I try to avoid a roasted taste as much as possible." Instead, the espresso made from Ethiopian Beriti-Tore beans tastes of grapefruit, dried plums and umeboshi, and is barely recognizable as coffee for fans of classic mocha when tasted blind. In the cappuccino, by the way, the tart and fruity notes work surprisingly well, not least because the baristas here are really good with frothed milk. Hipstertown now also has a coffee house. Summary: A contemporary coffee bar near the university now roasts its own sour, fruity 3rdWave coffee in the seventh district. Jonas Reindl Coffee Roasters 7th, Westbahnstr. 13, Tue-Fri 7.30-21, Sat 9.30-21, Sun 10.30-18,

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