Lido - Bar e Cicchetti

Review

Enough with the fun

There are a few places of pilgrimage among the apologists of sandwich culture. Almost everyone knows Katz's Delicatessen in Manhattan anyway, and we've already queued up at Vino Vero at the Fondamenta della Misericordia in Venice. Whether it should be the Dusty Knuckle, Fink's or Black Pig in London is a matter for debate. And then there are places like the Bar Alla Toletta in Dorsoduro, where you stand in front of the display case in amazement and wonder how they get so much filling between the white foam rubber sandwiches. Or the Bar dei Osei in Padua, where fresh products are constantly being made and you are comforted on the train home by the rectangular and juicy tramezzino with porchetta and peperonata. Recently, Tim Schächter - known as the managing director of the two fusion burger huts Shiso Burger - ventured into the often failed adventure of offering tramezzini in the following strategy for his bar called Lido: With the location in the former Lustig paper shop, which closed just before its 200th birthday last year, he found a potent city center location. He commissioned Tzou Lubroth Architects, with all their experience in upscale trendy gastronomy. And finally, in addition to tramezzini, there are also cocktails, as is currently the case everywhere and apparently obligatory in Vienna. Okay, the design of the bar was perhaps a little Bauhaus-stylish and, unlike the Italian models, the sluice-like entrance is the opposite of low-threshold and inviting. The background soundcloud is annoying, and the fact that the Lido only opens in the afternoon is a little strange in connection with tramezzini, but that's as it should be, because the Italo sandwiches here really aren't bad. They may not be as densely filled as the showpieces in the display case, but there are olives and taralli to nibble on, and the Prosecco alla Spina is four euros, so it's fun.
Of the "normal" tramezzini, I tried the Bologna version with mortadella, very good, a little more sausage and not so icy cold would make it even more enjoyable (€ 3.90). The special tramezzino with bresaola, salted lemon, ricotta, rocket and caramelized onion was definitely Venetian. The filled bread with caper cream and marinated tuna was also good (€ 4.90 each). All in all, it's a thoroughly worthy cult spot, hopefully there will be an outdoor seating area and it will also open in the mornings in spring. Many have tried it, but few have succeeded so far - namely in firmly anchoring the tramezzino in Vienna. In the Lido, the exercise could finally work.

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