Volksgarten Pavillon

Review

The times will be Haerdtl

Photo: Heribert Corn The fact that the Volksgarten Pavilion is open again is very pleasing, because it is an unmistakable sign that spring is back, but it's not really that crazy new. The Volksgarten Pavilion reopens every spring. The design of the milk pavilion built by Oswald Haerdtl in 1951 is still fantastic and the smoker - the black iron thing that was installed here five years ago and was the first opportunity to get real BBQ in Vienna's gastronomy - is still covered with a tarpaulin, but not for much longer. Yes, that's right, none of this was new until now, or rather it's probably still a little too early. However, there is something else that is not new: Matthias Zykan is cooking here again. Self-taught Zykan ran the kitchen at the Palmenhaus for ten years, during which time he created a modern, fresh, creative line that was unheard of in Vienna at the time. He then came up with the smoker idea for the sister restaurant Volksgarten Pavillon, which was always in a bit of a culinary identity crisis, which Peter Fallnbügl - head chef at the new Heuer on Karlsplatz for a few weeks now - knew how to use with virtuosity. Last summer, Zykan made a brief reappearance with the "Filiale" on Petersplatz, a pop-up restaurant for the Venice Biennale, where Zykan served Venetian "Bacari" snacks. And now it's back in the pavilion, which for the time being has a small, very fine lunch menu and from April 25 will in all likelihood be the best smoke-cooking restaurant in the city again. Zykan says that he wants to have the black locomotive in operation 24 hours a day, so he can perfume vegetables or other ingredients in the cold smoke just a little overnight and make use of the smoker's many possibilities. Zykan has also been looking for interesting products for some time, sausages, meat, poultry and fish, which will then go into the hot smoke. But as I said, that is unfortunately still a dream of the future, but the salad of Sicilian Tarocco oranges with raw fennel and olive oil was quite a consolation, it has to be said (€ 3.80). And what sounds a bit dull as a "grilled cheese sandwich" was a really good grilled rye bread toast with melted cheese, served with sautéed mushrooms and a really crunchy green salad (€ 8.40). And Eishken Estate, the best fishmonger in the country, supplies Lake Constance catfish, which are grilled with lots of dill and lemon butter, tender, juicy and wonderful. And definitely an appetizer for the big smoke (€ 15). Techno Café will also be back. But that's another story. Summary: The Volksgarten Pavilion awakens from hibernation. For the time being with a delicious, small daily program, soon with lots of smoke. Volksgarten Pavillon 1st, Volksgarten Tel. 01/532 09 07 until 25.4. daily 11am-6pm

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