Alles Wurscht

Review

The wild sausage

Sebastian Neuschler seems excited. The restaurateur has owned a sausage stand on Börseplatz for three weeks now and the queue of people is impressive. Neuschler, who used to run the friendly Marktlücke restaurant near Karmelitermarkt, tells us about the strange looks his colleagues gave him when he announced that he wanted to make sausages. They wondered if that wasn't quite a step down. "But I make more money here than in my restaurant," he says, "and I really enjoy it." Neuschler's stall with the programmatic name Alles Wurscht is of course no ordinary sausage stand. He had it planned by a specialist for professional kitchens, it has a dispensing system with three taps dispensing beer, soda and frizzante, he sources the sausages from four different butchers, two of them from Vienna, and, attention, now it's getting hipster, fermented sausages are very popular at this sausage stand. Instead of coleslaw, there's kimchi, instead of pickled gherkins there's lacto-fermented radishes. Firstly, this is cool and secondly, it means that people suddenly turn up here who have obviously never been to a sausage stand before. They want to know exactly how long and at what temperature the peppers have been fermented and take the opportunity to talk a little about their own fermentation experiences ... Mature consumers, great, but sometimes annoying when the queue behind them gets longer.
Sebastian Neuschler and his team are on hand to answer questions while they fry, arrange, collect and wipe up spills, explain their organic philosophy, point out that the bread and pastries are from Öfferl and made from sourdough, apologize for the fact that currywurst with fermented sausage, curry ketchup and koji curry powder is currently out.
Or tell them that the rolls for their bosna are baked with miso, which makes them particularly crispy, that they also contain fermented spring onions, and with a great deal of pride: "People are completely blown away that there is suddenly so much flavor." Apart from the fact that the Käsekrainer from Weinviertler Fleischerei Scheiterer is really extremely good (€ 4.70), Alles Wurscht also offers interesting alternatives to the stuffed skin, such as calamari fritti or truffled Krautfleckerln or even excellent beef tatar (two thirds fillet, one third brisket) with mustard mayonnaise and toasted brioche (€ 10.90). And that at the sausage stand! In summary: a trend-setting sausage stand where someone has seriously thought about quality. And about the pleasure principle of a good sausage.

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