Schlawiener

Review

A little love

Photo: Heribert Corn David Kreytenberg and his three companions actually wanted to open their new Schlawiener on March 15. But March 15, 2020 was probably the worst day in the last 75 years to open a restaurant. It's also bad because the hardship fund is not prepared to pay out much to businesses that had zero turnover. Bad because all the investment went into rebuilding, and then on day one there was the shutdown. But we know that anyway ... Perhaps it was a good thing that the people at Schlawiener are quite good at improvising: Main shareholder Manuel Letz owns a management consultancy in the Weinviertel region, whose motto is "We work solution-oriented"; David Kreytenberg has run numerous unusual restaurants and events in unusual locations in recent years (such as the restaurant "Die Liebe" in the "Marktwirtschaft"); Sebastian Müller is a chef consultant and "opening chef", i.e. a chef in restaurants that have just opened and where everything usually goes wrong anyway; and Florian Schulz managed the recently sold Orange in Margaretenstraße, so he is also used to rough seas.
But what is Schlawiener? The four of them took over an unremarkable brick-vaulted beer bar and want to turn it into a hybrid of cocktail bar and eatery with upscale Viennese cuisine. The room intended for dining was designed by London artist David Shillinglaw in the style of a children's playgroup - as was the case with Liebe - but it wasn't quite finished last week - and it doesn't matter because the food is served through the window anyway. Sebastian Müller has already cooked great food in many places, was a top chef at Hanner and Coburg, cooked at Ramasuri, Pizzeria Randale and most recently at Calea Dinner Club, where his cuisine was definitely the best thing about the whole concept.
And it's really amazing what good things come in the cardboard boxes: main courses of the braised and roasted kind, potato goulash (€ 9.-), braised beef cheeks (€ 14.50) or a roast pork from the belly of the Ötscher pig with napkin dumplings and bacon cabbage, which was really very good and had a crispy crust, all respect (€ 14.50). For variety, there's also a weekly menu, which on this day offered white asparagus with a light, delicately sweet hollandaise sauce and parsley potatoes - it was warm and pleasantly al dente even after being transported home (€ 11.00). And the milk cream strudel with vanilla sauce really wasn't bad (€ 6.50). Everything will be different in a good week's time, I know. But I could get used to a take-away like this. To sum up: a new restaurant that is almost finished and is selling its Viennese cuisine through the window for the time being. Schlawiener, 4th, Preßg. 29, Tel. 0677/62 95 38 54, Tue-Sat 11.30-15, 17-21,

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