Lenz

Review

Beer that is not dorky

Photo: Heribert Corn Why the chic udon restaurant Kuro, which a Japanese electronics manager opened in Burggasse three years ago, was only open for a few months is a mystery. The place looked good, the noodle soups and the inevitable rolls were okay, the Nippon tapas called "Kobachi" were even great. It didn't help that the lavishly decorated designer restaurant stood empty for a long time, until Max Gaspar discovered that there was actually too little beer in the seventh district. Or rather, too little beer from small, independent breweries. Three years ago, Gaspar opened a small store called Biergreissler in Lederergasse, which quickly proved to be a good source of beers from local microbreweries. And this spring, he launched a crowdfunding campaign with the motto "Variety instead of standardized beer, independence instead of a beer contract, fair prices and lots of fun". That was enough to raise 12,000 euros in a month and a half and turn the simple Japanese noodle soup restaurant into a rather rustic beer parlour - the carved wall panelling was reused in the cladding of the bar, by the way. It has been open for two weeks now and while the hordes across the street on Spittelberg are wallowing in Biedermeier Advent bliss, you can come here to explore the current status of the local art of brewing. It starts with the fact that one of the five open beers here is a Zwickl from a Lenzing pub brewery called Leimer, never heard of before, never drunk before, not bad at all. And alongside a few names of good breweries from all over the world, you read about a Dangl brewery from Japons and a Stefan's beer from Ladendorf, discover that there is the really rare Tschöams beer from a special needs teacher from Maria Enzersdorf, that there are three vintages of Axel Kiesbyes Waldbier in stock (with 2018 "Holzbirne" being the best), that the Styrian avant-garde brewer Alfried "Alefried" Borkenstein - who has just been named brewmaster of the year by Gault Millau - is represented, as are the people from Brauküche 35, who also make beer from a smoked Mangalitza hogshead. And all at standard prices (€ 3.90). Great! What you shouldn't expect: good food. Food plays a very subordinate role at Biergreisslers Beisl and only serves as a carpet pad here. Britt from Denmark, who knows a thing or two about beer, does everything she can to ensure that Salzstangerln with roast fat, hot sausage, goulash and the like are served flawlessly, but - in all modesty - I do chili con carne better than the Waldviertel butcher from whom Max Gaspar buys. And that doesn't really matter here. Summary: A new beer bar that offers a glimpse into previously unknown brewing worlds and where you shouldn't make any demands on design and food. Biergreisslers Beisl, 7th, Burgg. 18, tel. 01/402 43 95, Mon-Wed 17-24, Thu, Fri 17-01, Sat 15-01, Sun 15-24,

More in Bar, Nightclub
Food & Drink in Vienna