China Kitchen

Review

A set of hot ears

The cuisine of the Chinese province of Sichuan has gained enormous popularity in recent years, and interestingly not only in Vienna. It's not much different in China, says an insider, as the otherwise rather conservative Chinese have taken a liking to Sichuan's spicy, intense cuisine in recent years. And because the average income in Sichuan is still significantly lower than on the coast, for example, many restaurateurs and chefs seek their fortune there or in Europe. Ten years ago, the Chinese restaurant No. 27 in Ungargasse was one of these restaurants where you could enjoy the spicy splendor, and five years ago, chef Zhang Fa Jun went into business for himself and moved to Wienzeile, and Vienna's Chinese community welcomed the restaurant with joy. The only problem was that the name China Kitchen No. 27 was a bit similar to Chinese restaurant No. 27, and many people thought the two restaurants had something to do with each other (no wonder!). And that's why they've not only remodeled, but also chosen a new name: China Kitchen, not exactly the differentiation craze either, but okay. The new design is fresh, bright, modern, you sit at desks at the right height and the wall has been painted with a picture of singing birds. A peaceful image that gives no idea of what's on the menu here, because it's drastic, a bit heavy at times, but even then it's incredibly well prepared. Offal is the big thing here, but it is also advisable to browse through the vegetables and tofu. And it is also advisable to come in groups, as these portions are simply not made for one person. For example, fried tiger skin pepperoni in a "spicy pepper sauce" made from sesame oil and fermented soybeans, which makes for a terrific combination (€ 6.80). The tripe salad here is legendary, but "sliced beef tendons" sounded even more interesting: a kind of brawn, sliced wafer-thin and served with zucchini, green coriander, roasted sesame seeds and plenty of red chilli oil - you sweat where you usually never sweat (€ 6.20). "A thousand layers of pig's ears" is very similar, also a delicious brawn, but with a slightly different bite, also very good (€ 7.20), and if you want to impress your friends, go for poached blood tofu and beef offal with breakfast sausage in chili oil: This is a kind of Chinese bruckfleisch, where cubes of silky-smooth blood pudding are bathed in hot red oil with finely sliced tongue, tripe and other mesentery, as well as a kind of Chinese mortadella with mushrooms and vegetables (€ 16.80). Don't worry, there are also some less bad things, but I didn't try them. Summary: A new dimension of Sichuan delicacies in Vienna's quarter mile of central and north-western Chinese temptations. China Kitchen, 6th, Linke Wienzeile 20, tel. 01/581 24 86, Mon-Sat 11.30-22, Fri 12-22,

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