MAST Weinbistro

Review

Black sheep, white vest

Photo: Heribert Corn The newly opened restaurant "Zum schwarzen Schaf" actually only exists because Tyrolean filmmaker and "Wastecooking" chef Tobias Judmaier and his friend Paul Streli, formerly a chef at Rasouli, were looking for a kitchen for their catering and food delivery service "iss mich!". The location they found ultimately offered room for more. To explain: "iss mich!" is a project to avoid food waste, which has just been awarded the "Viktualia Award 2014". The two "rescue" organic vegetables from the Marchfeld region that do not meet the aesthetic requirements of the trade and would therefore be disposed of freshly harvested. The self-taught chefs use crooked carrots and heart-shaped potatoes to prepare delicious vegetarian and vegan soups and stews such as "I am a vegetable curry" or "I am a potato goulash with smoked tofu", which they pack in returnable jars and deliver by bike. And because the Schwarze Schaf is not "black" at all, they work together with Caritas to deliver the food. The dishes change weekly and are accompanied by an unmistakable request: Eat me! So far, so (very) good, but the motto at Schwarzes Schaf is: Share me! At least if chef-owner Tobias Judmaier has his way. The evening menu features small dishes, several of which can be ordered and swapped. They are divided into mezze for around two euros, such as mixed olives, capers, marinated sheep's cheese or delicious pea and mint hummus. The menu continues with slightly larger appetizers at 3.50 euros - mainly vegetable dishes, such as a wonderfully crunchy carrot and coconut salad with black sesame seeds, refreshing tabouleh with extra parsley, very fine chickpeas with asparagus and tomatoes and not quite as inspiring lemon potatoes, which both stand on their own and are intended as side dishes for the "large mezze" at 4.50 euros. The small main courses were then ceviche of trout in an ingenious mixture of raw green asparagus and white peach, with pleasant fruit and subtle acidity. Then there was a very dense, intense lamb ragout with celery that melted in the mouth. This was followed by saffron pears (€ 3.50) and chocolate mousse with cayenne pepper, for which there was unfortunately no more room despite the small portions beforehand. The dishes are served on pretty, colourfully patterned plates or bowls that go perfectly with the epoxy resin floor in reseda green, which should actually be forest green, just like the floor-to-ceiling windows, but the extensive renovation work is another story ... Oh yes: the "eat me!" boxes are also available at Schwarzes Schaf. And an event with wastecooking is also planned. To sum up: a friendly restaurant with uncomplicated, creative and refined cuisine and a high level of sustainability and feel-good appeal. Zum Schwarzen Schaf 9th, Porzellangasse 53 Tel: 236 29 21 Mon-Fri 10am-2pm

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